Bansko: Hot Water, Then and Now
Bansko is the spa village on the northern foot of the Belasica, about 6 km and roughly 10 minutes from the retreat. A powerful spring called Parilo comes out of the ground at about 72-73 C, and the regional tourism authority describes the thermal-mineral water as the warmest in North Macedonia.
The same water drew the Romans. Their bath complex here, built in the 2nd century AD, is one of the largest excavated in the Balkans, and it stands within walking distance of the modern pools where guests swim today.
The Roman bath
More than 1,500 square metres survive across eleven chambers, with the full sequence intact: apodyterium, tepidarium, caldarium, frigidarium and sudatorium, heated by hot water running through ducts in the floors and walls. The main pool and tubs were about 1.5 m deep, with steps down into them.
The complex fell into neglect in the 6th century, and earlier structures suggest the site already worked as a sanatorium before the Romans built. Systematic excavation began in 1978-1981 and continues; the local names 'Turkish Bath' and 'Panagjur', meaning fair, record later medieval and Ottoman use of the same ground.
Bathing today
The Roman building is an archaeological site and no longer in use for bathing, though researchers have suggested it could be reconstructed. Swimming happens in the modern thermal pools and spa facilities in the village, which use the same hot source, tempered for bathing.
This is where the retreat sends guests for massage and spa treatments: close enough for an afternoon, warm enough for a January one.
Making a day of it
The usual pattern from the hacienda is a morning walk to the waterfalls, an afternoon in warm water, and dinner back at the retreat. In cooler or wet weather, Bansko is the trip that rescues the day.
The village also holds the Monastery of the Forty Martyrs of Sebaste, so a short culture stop fits easily around the pools.
Why visit
- Thermal water at about 72-73 C, the country's warmest
- A 2nd-century Roman bath of over 1,500 m2 and 11 rooms
- Hypocaust heating and a 1.5 m-deep pool you can inspect
- Modern thermal pools and massage about 10 minutes away
- The monastery of the Forty Martyrs in the same village
Good to know
Getting there
About 6 km and roughly 10 minutes by road from Gabrovo, in Strumica Municipality towards the western Belasica foot.
When to go
Year-round, and most appealing in cool or wet weather. Visit the Roman site in daylight and the pools whenever the mood takes you.
Spa treatments
Massage and spa arrangements in Bansko can be organised through the retreat; tell us a day ahead for times.
Frequently asked questions
Can we bathe in the Roman bath itself?
How hot is the water?
Is it suitable for children?
More to explore
Stay at the hacienda
Bansko is ten minutes up the road and works in any weather. Ask us to book a massage while you soak.